The French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once proposed: "Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you who you are". These connections between cuisine and identity (in other words, the connection between what people eat and what they are) are deep entrenched in Mexican history. The Consulado General de Mexico writes that "the richness of our cuisine flows from our concern for the sensory experience of eating, for we know that the taste, smell, and look of food can enrich an inspire the spirit." Indeed, "cuisine is culture", and an understanding of Mexican cuisine, identity and history go hand in hand.
The Diet of the Mayan Indians
Mexican food might go back as far as the Mayan Indians, who lived in the Yucatan area in Southeast Mexico. They were nomadic hunter-gatherers and lived off indigenous wildlife such as deer, rabbits, armadillos, raccoons, and birds such as turkeys, pigeons, and quails could also be served. Even turtles, snakes, and frogs would occasionally complement the meal, as well as fish, tropical fruit, beans and corn. Corn tortillas spread with bean paste for example, was a common food. Interestingly, it turns out that corn and beans have "complimentary" amino acids. Their combination provides the full complement of amino acids, which the body needs to produce the protein it needs to function properly.
Pre-Columbian Period Mexican Food
In the time before significant European influence, often referred to as the pre-Colombian period, Mexican diet was entirely native, and based on one of its main agricultural products: Corn. Corn was made into flavorful tortillas and tamales, or rendered into flour for other variations. These corn products were supplemented with vegetables and meat, sweet potato, beans, squash and a variety of spices including chiles. The importance of chiles to Mexican identity is captured in a famous folk song: Yo soy como el chile verde, picante pero sabroso (I am like the green chile, hot but tasty). Early Mexicans also relied on herbs and a wide range of mushrooms.
After the Conquest
The conquest of Mexico by Spain in 1521 had a great influence on Mexican cuisine. It brought, for example, new livestock, such as pigs, cows and sheep, dairy products, garlic, many herbs, including coriander, an abundance of spices and wheat. With the conquistadores and their descendents also came a taste for barley, rice, olives, wines, Indian spices, beef, and different kinds of fruit. Yet Paige West points out that Spain and Mexico influenced each other a lot less than many suggest, primarily because of the great environmental differences. The new settlers in Mexico had to learn to love maize. It took time for them to start thinking of a "tortilla" as a Native American corn bread rather than as an omelet. In fact, writes West, throughout Latin America except in the far north and south, the staples of the traditional Spanish diet; wheat, olives, vines, and pigs, do not flourish. Conversely, according to West, Mexican crops have taken much less hold in Spain than in Italy or even Hungary.
Today
Given this varied culinary history it is not surprising that contemporary Mexican cuisine is tasty and diverse. Many of the traditional ingredients, such as beans, chocolate, corn, squash, tomatoes, chocolate, avocado, vanilla, spices, and of course, chili peppers, are still popular throughout Mexico. Yet dishes do vary from region to region. In fact, there are some dishes, which non-Mexicans think of as typically Mexican, but which are quite foreign to people in certain parts of Mexico. A good example of this is the Burrito (a stuffed wheat tortilla). While popular in the North, it is a foreign dish in the corn-ruled South.
For the Love of Mexican Food
Undoubtedly, the long and tasty history of Mexican food and the wide variety of dishes that this history delivered contributed to the worldwide popularity of Mexican food. As far as the Consulado General de Mexico is concerned, "Love of Mexican food shows an appreciation not only for the constant process of search and discovery of the right combination of the ingredients, but for the great Mexican imagination." I couldn't agree more. ?
References
Consulado General de Mexico (1996). Mexican Cuisine and its Origin. Retrieved on September 25, 2006 from: http://www.mexconnect.com/MEX/austin/0996food.html
Ancient Times and Influences. Retrieved on September 25, 2006 from: http://www.recipes4us.co.uk/Cooking%20by%20Country/Mexico.htm
Paige West (2000). Anthropology and the Environment. Retrieved on September 25, 2006 from: http://www.eanth.org/Newsletter.php?Id=44
